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 Post subject: FS-Takamine CTP-1 Cool Tube
PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 6:32 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2013 6:48 pm
Posts: 15
Location: Central East Coast Florida
Hi,

I recently picked up a CTP-2 for my Tan 16c so am selling this for $100.00 shipped in the con US. It works great, though one tab on the battery tray broke off near the top. It still clicks firmly into the unit and is easy to remove using your thumbnail. I'll include the tab...you may be able to superglue it back on? Once again, $100.00 shipped firm.

Thanks!
Dave
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 Post subject: Re: FS-Takamine CTP-1 Cool Tube
PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2018 5:17 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2014 3:21 pm
Posts: 6
Dave,

Is your CTP-1 PreAmp Still For Sale/Available?


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 Post subject: Re: FS-Takamine CTP-1 Cool Tube - Repair Options?
PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 6:09 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2014 3:21 pm
Posts: 6
I have a 2006 TAN16C that has a CTP-1 PreAmp. Apparently battery leakage has corroded the battery tray small hole contacts (Female Contacts) and the pogo pins (Male Contacts) inside at the bottom of PreAmp battery slot. I would first like to see if it's repairable. In the previous post it was mentioned to use a DI+ to save on batteries. I'm really wondering what this DI+ device is. This could bypass my issue. If anyone is knowledgeable on this subject I would very much appreciate their help to solve my non-functioning CTP-1 PreAmp?

option#1 - Repair the CTP-1 PreAmp Battery Tray and pogo pin contacts boards.
option#2 - Used a DI+ (Please explain how this works?)
option#3 - Creative Solutions
option#4 - Purchase a new PreAmp (CTP-2, CTP-3, CT4DX, not sure which PreAmp) This would be the most expensive option after all others options are reviewed.

Thank you,
C.W. Neefus
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 Post subject: Re: FS-Takamine CTP-1 Cool Tube
PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 3:23 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 12, 2007 7:09 pm
Posts: 3409
Location: Phoenix AZ
Here is a creative idea

http://www.jazzyacousticguitar.com/powe ... cool-tube/

He simply "splits" the signal with a cheap Y-stereo cable plugged in to the guitar and uses one leg to power the CTP and the other leg is the guitar output to his amp. No modifications needed to the guitar itself. Sounds pretty ingenious to me.

A couple of things to check
- 2006 is kind of boarderline, you will need to check if your guitar even HAS the later style endpin jack that can accept the DI+ (or the trick described above)
- does the trick above work on CTP-1? The article only mentions CTP-2
- if you go this route make sure you clearly label the POWER and AMP legs of the Y-cable


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